I am not a robot. I promise.
The two QR codes could be totally related, like two different versions of a rickroll, or two different versions of bad apple.
You just never know exactly which one you’re gonna get…
Hint, in my experience testing that, it partly depends what angle you’re holding your device when scanning such combo QR codes.
I had a chrome Zippo XIV, one of the models you just don’t fuck with.
I loaned it out one day to light fireworks. Somehow they overheated and ruined the flint wheel…
Anyways, if I catch you swapping Zippo parts, I’m gonna melt Frosty the Snowman…
I’ll add Bic lighter to this list too.
What else does Bic make? 🤔
Did you know that you can halftone dither two different but same size QR codes on top of each other?
I wish I had a link to the article handy, but yeah I’ve tried that myself and it totally works! You basically get a 50/50 chance of one or the other code scanning. It’s literally two QR codes in one!
And no, that’s not some new special QR code format either, it’s basically taking advantage of the nature of the scanners plus the built in error correction.
Is?
Died in 1953.
WAS
I’d recommend silicone glue also, but I wouldn’t use epoxy, that’ll harden completely solid and won’t long stay attached with road vibrations and all.
OP, like the person above said, check for any clips or grooves or whatever first. If you absolutely have to glue it back on, make sure all the surfaces are clean first, and make sure to tape it up in place temporarily while the glue dries. I’d give it a whole 24 hours drying time with silicone glue.
Thank you, I’ll be here all week…
Zombies are so dumb, they don’t even know where the brains are, they always go after the abdomen.
If you can’t defeat a slow moving undead creature with fewer active brain cells than Donald Turnip, then that’s on you…
None. I don’t have a wife. But yes I’ve eaten raw onions before (just small wild onions though, I’m not a savage, I promise)
It is actually helping a bit, but knowing the old injury, I still need to restrict my neck motion for a while, when I otherwise want to sleep ☹️
I think I’ll be good, as long as I don’t bend my neck in any weird ways tonight. That sucks though, as I’d just as soon be asleep right now, but I tend to toss and turn in my sleep, not good for my neck at the moment.
But your advice was solid, even if it only helped like 10%, the muscle rub cream indeed has helped 👍
Actually, thank you!
The sore area is very closely related to an old slipped disc and pinched nerve injury, but isn’t quite that bad again yet. You just reminded me that we have some muscle rub cream in the bathroom, and the instant I read your comment, I just went to apply some.
I just hope it doesn’t go back to being a pinched nerve, but muscle rub cream surely can’t hurt!
Thank you again fellow Lemming 👍
I’ll just be happy if my neck quits hurting so I can lay down and get some proper sleep tonight ☹️
I just tried the archived link and apparently NYTimes even blocks the full article from the archive ☹️
Main reason I tried that is because, to my understanding, NYTimes gift articles are only available for 2 weeks or so.
Sigh, I tried anyways, for the good cause. 🤷
Also, if you plan to start soldering more regularly, you might want to get some desoldering wick and a desoldering pump, check some tutorials, and practice on some scrap parts first.
I’m no sponsor or shill for these items, just a casual stroll through the bay for suggestions…
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322171797486
Mechanical keyboard don’t have super thick heavy duty power traces, so basically any cheap $25 dollar 30 watt iron from Lowe’s or other hardware store should do the trick for your needs.
When looking for solder, look for flux core or rosin core solder, practically all electronics grade solder is hollow and has flux/rosin already inside the solder.
For larger projects where you’re dealing with large power traces and/or large wires, you might want to invest in a more professional temperature adjustable soldering station, and additional flux.
What old flux I’ve been using (I admit I haven’t done all that much soldering in years after I quit that job, chemicals aren’t exactly healthy yo)…
NC-559-ASM-TPF(UV)
But hey, if you want some cheap flux, just go cut some bark off of a pine tree and let the sap run for a day or two. The original soldering flux was pine sap.
Good luck fully cleaning that shit off though, pine sap is super sticky…
Use flux, pre-tin your soldering tip and the stuff you’re planning to solder before you actually solder things together, rubbing alcohol and Q-Tips to clean residual flux off afterwards.
Yes that’s an extremely simplified explanation, but for real, cleanliness is of utmost importance. When solder is clean and has flux, it flows almost like mercury when hot.
Also, you don’t want the iron too cold or too hot. I’ve found temperature ranges between 370⁰C to 420⁰C typically best, lower temperature for thin data line traces, higher temps for large ground plane or power traces.
Meme thief!
LOL, carry on…